Wednesday, November 3, 2010

November 3rd

AM: Waves are flat. Should start to pick up tomorrow.

edit: got some small knee high waves on the long board between 2 and 3. pretty clean, some lines if you get in front of the whitewash. Long lulls between sets.

water is getting cold. i used a 3/2 w/o booties and I was cold when i got out.

R.I.P. - 3x World Champion surfer Andy Irons who died yesterday of dengue fever in a hotel room in Dallas, TX. He was trying to get back to Hawaii but was refused boarding on to the plane in Dallas. He was found in his hotel room the next morning. Most likely he contracted dengue fever or bone crusher fever from an infected mosquito when he first arrived in Puerto Rico for the Rip Curl pro search contest. He missed his first two heats due to illness and when he decided he would rather see his own doctors in Hawaii, Andy left Puerto Rico and never made it home. He leaves behind a wife and an unborn baby, his brother Bruce, parents, and a shocked surfing community. He was 32.

Going to watch "A Fly in the Champagne" over and over all day.


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