Friday, November 12, 2010
AM:waves are good. Solid Head high with some + on the sets and some - in between.
Not many early birds out. The pictures don't do it justice but I wanted to get something up here before I get out in the water.
High tide is fattening the wave out a little bit but there are def still some hollow ones coming in. The inside doesn't look to hard to navigate. Although you can see what happened to the guy caught inside in the first pic with the white long board going over the falls. More pics from the day will be at the top of the photo stream on the left. Go Surf!!!
PM:It got bigger and really fun. Head high + with plenty of push. some big drops and thick walls of water but many closeouts on the inside. Not too many people out.
4/3 or better need booties.. long board or short board