AM: Stomach to chest+, choppy with some close-out's but plenty of shreadable lines. moderate easterly current. should clean up for the pm.
PM: Much cleaner toward sunset. winds turned nw around 4ish. lost some size but very fun. clean lines and light crowds.
Might have a bit left for tomorrow.
note: using a 3/2 suit, rode a 5'8 ...lost rocket