Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Back in town! (yoooo)

Doesn't seem as though much has changed in the 8 years since I've been away. The pecking order is still the same. The old guy long boarders have gotten older and the grom's of back in the day now run the lineup. I used to be one of them. Still am. People still sit up on the boards watching the waves reminiscing about how good it was the day before or talking about how much better it will be tomorrow or later on in the week. I don't think it will ever change. People have nice equipment here too. Clean white boards, all the new funky shapes, expensive wetsuits and every garage you ride your bike past has an old long board or a wetsuit hanging up too dry. This is a real surf town, close to the heart of New York. Doesn't get much better than this. There are 4 surf shops on this small island and a few of them have been in business for the better part of a decade. There is a core group of real surfers that surf all year long and don't mind when it gets big, cold or ugly. Oh and it does get big and cold here.
I can't wait to trudge across the beach covered in snow with so much rubber on my body I can barely move. Vaseline smeared on my face to save me from frost bite and wind burn. Picturing myself in the glassy, off shore, overhead surf that is about to rock my world. This is what surfing in LB is to me.

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