Saturday, March 12, 2011
We ended up getting some solid waves today in the afternoon. Head high- Ohead on the big sets. The waves would start kinda chunky and fat and then just jack up and throw over. It would be best on a board with a little more volume. Even on a long board. There was def some chop and bump to the face of the waves but plenty of nice walls and some barrels. Rip wasn't too bad although I did get sucked 4 beaches down by the time I got out. Reminded me of Miami on a big choppy day but this was bigger, cleaner and better. Only about 5 guys out. Was sunny with a bit of an on-shore wind.